To print a 3MF file on your home 3D printer, the flow is: load the 3MF into a slicer (software that converts a model into print data) → adjust size and orientation → set layer height, infill, supports and so on → convert it to G-code (the printer's instruction data) → print it. This article walks through that preparation step by step, including what each setting means and where people tend to stumble. Even if you don't own a 3D printer, it works as groundwork before you send a file to an outside print service.
Note: Figmee's physical 3D print service is currently Coming Soon. This article explains the general preparation for using 3MF data exported from Figmee or elsewhere with your own 3D printer or an outside print service. There is not yet a way to order a print directly from Figmee.
The overall flow from 3MF to print
First, the big picture. As explained in What is a 3MF file? How it differs from STL, 3MF is easy to work with during print preparation because it can carry color and settings together with the model. Each format, whether 3MF, STL, OBJ or GLB, has its own strengths: STL holds shape only, OBJ and GLB suit display and editing, and 3MF is built for printing. The steps are as follows.
- Get a slicer ready (roughly 10 to 20 minutes, first time only) Set up a slicer that supports your printer. The major slicers all support 3MF (see the table below).
- Load the 3MF (roughly 1 to 2 minutes) Drag and drop the 3MF file into the slicer, or load it with "Open / Import". If the 3MF includes settings, those may be loaded along with it.
- Adjust size, orientation and placement (roughly 3 to 5 minutes) Check the build size (mm) and scale up or down if needed. Placing the model in an orientation with a wide contact area makes it more stable.
- Decide the print settings (roughly 5 to 10 minutes) Set layer height, infill, supports, bed adhesion aids and so on (explained in the next section).
- Check the preview and convert to G-code (roughly 1 to 3 minutes) Run the slice (conversion) and use the layer preview to check how the model will build, along with the estimated time and material use.
- Print it Send the G-code to the printer and print. Follow your printer's own procedure for this step.
3MF support in slicers
Here are the key points of 3MF support in the major slicers (based on each official source, as of July 2026).
| Slicer | How it handles 3MF | Source |
|---|---|---|
| PrusaSlicer | Native project save format (.3mf) | Prusa Knowledge Base |
| UltiMaker Cura | Supports 3MF for import and export | UltiMaker official |
| Bambu Studio | 3MF (Production Extension) is the default save format | Bambu Lab Wiki |
| OrcaSlicer | Uses an extended 3MF as its project format | OrcaSlicer Wiki |
All of these slicers can handle 3MF, but a 3MF created in a different slicer may not carry over some of its print settings as-is (printer-specific settings don't map one to one). When you open a 3MF that came from other software, check once that the settings are what you intended.
Slicer setting basics
These are the minimum settings worth understanding, since they drive print quality and time. The numbers are general guidelines; the best values depend on your printer, material and slicer.
- Layer height: The thickness of a single layer. Smaller values give smoother, finer detail but take longer. On a standard FDM printer, around 0.1 to 0.2 mm is common.
- Infill (internal fill density): How densely the inside is filled. For a display piece, around 10 to 20% is often enough; higher values make it sturdier but use more time and material.
- Supports: Structures that hold up parts floating in the air or large overhangs. You remove them afterward. The steeper the overhangs, the more supports you need.
- Bed adhesion aids (brim / raft): For models with a small base that tip over easily, adding an aid that widens the contact area helps prevent lifting and toppling.
- Wall (perimeter) thickness: The number of outer layers. More walls make the surface sturdier and help keep thin protrusions from cracking.
- Material (filament / resin) settings: Choose a temperature and speed profile that matches your material. For which materials suit which purposes, see also Which materials suit 3D prints based on illustrations?.
Whenever you change settings, always check the preview after slicing. Look at how supports are placed, how the model is split, and the estimated time and material use, and make sure nothing looks unreasonable before you print.
Common pitfalls
These are the points where 3MF print preparation most often ends in rejection or failure. Clearing them up in advance saves you from having to re-export.
- The mesh isn't closed: If a surface has holes or missing faces, the slicer can't tell what counts as "inside" and the job fails. If you get a warning on import, use the slicer's repair function or fix the source data so it becomes a closed shape (solid).
- Thin parts fall below the minimum wall thickness: Strands of hair, fingers or held items that are too thin will break during printing or post-processing. Thicken them beforehand, or reconsider the material and size. The full pre-submission checklist is in The basics of preparing data to 3D print an illustration.
- Supports end up where they can't be removed: If supports go into deep holes or intricately curved interiors, you can damage the model while removing them. Avoid this by changing the orientation to reduce supports, or by splitting the model.
- Assuming the colors will print: Even if a 3MF has color, a single-color printer will print it in one color. To get full color, you need a printer or service that supports full color.
- Unit and size mistakes: Mixing up units (mm) leads to prints that come out extremely small or large. Check the real dimensions before slicing.
When using a 3MF from Figmee
Figmee currently generates 3D models from the drawings and illustrations you upload, and lets you download them in 3MF format (full-color capable data). You can load the downloaded 3MF into any of the major slicers above and move on with print preparation.
To repeat: Figmee's physical 3D print service is Coming Soon. If you want to bring your model into physical form right now, print the exported 3MF on your own 3D printer or through an outside 3D print service. If you send it to an outside service, check their guidelines on supported formats, full-color support, minimum wall thickness and so on beforehand. If instead of 3D printing you want to make a mold and cast the piece as a soft vinyl (sofubi) figure, that is a separate process with its own steps. For the overall flow of "letting AI build the base and finishing it yourself", see How to edit a 3D model made with AI.
Frequently asked questions
Can I send a 3MF straight to the printer?
No. What a printer reads directly is G-code (print instruction data). You load the 3MF into a slicer, configure it, then convert it to G-code (slice it) and print. On some all-in-one systems, this step is automated internally.
Which slicer should I use?
Choose one that supports your printer. PrusaSlicer, UltiMaker Cura, Bambu Studio and OrcaSlicer are the main ones, and all of them support 3MF. Starting with the slicer your printer's manufacturer recommends makes it easier to get the settings roughly right.
If I print from a 3MF, will it come out in color?
Even if the data has color, whether color actually appears depends on the printer or service you use. A full-color capable machine or service will print in color; a single-color printer will print in one color. If you're aiming for full color, choose a printing method that supports it.
Is it worth preparing even if I don't have a printer at home?
Yes. Loading the file into a slicer and checking the preview lets you see the size, how the supports attach and any overly thin parts in advance. When you submit to an outside 3D print service, doing this check first also reduces rejections.
Summary
Preparing a 3MF for printing follows this flow: load it into a slicer → size and orientation → layer height, infill and support settings → preview check → G-code conversion. Because 3MF can carry color and settings together, it's less prone to miscommunication than STL. The major slicers (PrusaSlicer, Cura, Bambu Studio and OrcaSlicer) all support it.
Figmee can export 3MF as full-color capable data. Physical printing is Coming Soon, so start by checking the preview in a slicer and getting ready to print with an outside service or your own printer.
